By The kaftan (also known as caftan) originated in Ancient Mesopotamia. The garment style is traditionally a narrow cut, long robe with full sleeves either with a deep neck or open to the floor.
The defining feature of the kaftan, not to confuse it with other styles of dress that are similar, is its long sleeves. The kaftan was worn by both men and women, predominantly in Iran, North Africa, and West Africa.
Additionally, Ottoman sultans wore the kaftan from the 14th to 18th century. In Morocco, Moroccan judges wore the kaftan in court. The kaftan was a symbol, a status of power, elegance, and wealth.
The dress can be made of any fabric but is typically made from silk, wool, or cotton. The design and colors of the fabric vary, and it can be embellished and altered in any way. It was not until the late 1950s-1906s when the kaftan broke into high fashion after French companies such as Christian Dior and Balenciaga adopted the style.
The marketing pitch for the kaftan promoted it as an exotic dress that was easy to wear for any occasion. Unfamiliar to European and Western markets, celebrities were quick to hop on this trend, and the kaftan quickly became associated with Hollywood’s elite. It was transformed into an effortless, stylish look that allowed women to dress comfortably and even modestly in public.
Today, the kaftan is worn around the globe, with various styles and adaptations. Saks Fifth Avenue, a prominent luxury retailer, is also selling a kaftan, made by designer Andrew Gn. The gown is royal blue, has an embellished neckline, and is selling for 4,900 U.S. dollars.
At first glance, having a kaftan sold by a prominent clothing brand, or seeing kaftans on the runways, seems to be a greater step towards the representation of clothing that does not fit in the mainstream fashion culture. However, this is another example of cultural appropriation in fashion masked under the guise of celebration.
When prominent fashion brands first began implementing the kaftan in their playbooks, it was not out of appreciation or respect for the value or history of the clothing. They used the kaftans and marketed them to women as something exotic, foreign, and fresh.
At first glance, having a kaftan sold by a prominent clothing brand, or seeing kaftans on the runways, seems to be a greater step towards the representation of clothing that does not fit in the mainstream fashion culture. However, this is another example of cultural appropriation in fashion masked under the guise of celebration.
Women were choosing to wear the kaftan, not because of the beauty in the garment itself, but because it made them feel like they were someone else. Maybe it was a cooler, hipper version of themselves — like a woman who traveled all around the world, who was connected to the earth, and who had an “eat, pray, love” sort of philosophy.
It is very easy for women to treat clothing like the kaftan as something that they can wear when they feel like transforming into an alternate version of themselves. This is where the dangers of cultural appropriation and fetishes set in.
Cultural Appropriation in Fashion
The truth is, people do not appropriate someone’s culture in an instant, it starts with one thing; for example, the kaftan. And then, they spiral downward from there. The problem is that while you, as an outsider, are actively appropriating the culture of another person, you are convincing yourself that you belong to that culture.
Soon enough, that feeling of belonging becomes an entitlement and even obsession when you receive backlash or rejection from individuals who are actually part of that culture.
Just because you wear a kaftan does not mean you are entitled to labeling yourself “Middle Eastern” or “Arab.” This does not mean you can spray tan yourself 10 shades darker than your actual skin tone and call yourself “ethnically ambiguous.”
You cannot wear eye bracelets and claim you want to ward off the evil eye when you, in fact, didn’t grow up with such a concept. It is very easy once you start to take pieces and aspects of another culture to keep going. And even when you desperately try to fit in, you won’t because you don’t understand the culture and never will.
You are not entitled to another culture because you only want to pick its roses and leave the thorns behind. You have not and will not live in the struggle, diaspora, or suffering that those individuals face. More times than not, you will fail to speak out about the injustices they face, and you may even be contributing to their pain.
You are not entitled to another culture because you only want to pick its roses and leave the thorns behind. You have not and will not live in the struggle, diaspora, or suffering that those individuals face. More times than not, you will fail to speak out about the injustices they face, and you may even be contributing to their pain.
Please note, as a woman, I understand that it is difficult to constantly keep up with evolving fashion and lifestyle trends. Society’s idea of what a woman should be and look like is always changing.
It is natural for women to see style and beauty looks they like and want to emulate them; maybe choosing to style their clothing, makeup, or hair in a similar way. What we need to understand is there is an appropriate and inappropriate way to do that.
You can immerse yourself in another culture. You can respect and appreciate a culture’s clothing, food, and traditions through a genuine interest and understanding. This will open up your worldview and even dispel some biases you may have.
The Problem with Fast Fashion
There is another major problem with the kaftan being appropriated for profit. Fast fashion brands often exploit labor in the countries they are appropriating clothing from. Fast fashion brands and luxury brands have come under fire recently for playing a major role in furnishing sweatshops and cheap labor.
In Morocco, where the kaftan is most prominent, there are an estimated 1,200 textile companies with 165,000 workers. Many of these factories operate illegally. The workers are underpaid, and work long hours in dangerous conditions. Just recently, 28 sweatshop workers were killed in Tangier after heavy rains flooded the basement of a factory.
We call them clandestine factories because they do not respect the most minimal security conditions or labor rights
Aboubakr Elkhamilchi, founder of Attawassoul
The real price of the appropriated kaftans is the lives of thousands of vulnerable people working in these factories to provide for their families. The abuse and human rights violations get swept under the rug because of how powerful fashion brands have become. The higher the demand for items like the kaftan, the more sweatshops will continue to operate.
The next time you consider hopping on the latest trend, consider the story behind the garment you are buying, and the impact that it may have on people.